The suit jacket is the base of a sharp wardrobe, the piece that takes your look from casual to commanding. For some though the purchase of a suit jacket is a confusing affair. It says “40R” but what does that really mean for your body?
Know what size you are and which fit issues to expect.
This in depth guide will clarify the measurements, the lingo, and the basics of tailoring. At the end of which you will know which size Leather Jacket to pick out and how to check the fit once it is taken off the rack which in turn gives you the confidence to go into any store and make a smart choice.
The Jacket Size Code: Decoding the Number and Letter
When it comes to suit jacket labels you will see a size which is a number and a letter which may be 38S, 40R, or 44L.
The Number: Your bust measurement.
The chest measurement (e.g. 38, 40, 44) is in inches.
To determine this measurement take in at the fullest part of your chest, just below your armpits and keep the tape measure level. Stand normally don’t puff out your chest.
If your chest measures at 41 inches go ahead and round to the nearest even number which would be either 40 or 42. Also keep in mind that jackets have that feature of “ease” which allows for ease of movement and for layering over a t shirt.
Golden Rule: The size number is a place to start. Also note that shoulder fit is the primary issue; which is also the most expensive to modify.
The Letter: Your Jacket Length
The letter after the number (S, R, or L) is a size indicator for jacket length which in turn relates to your height.
If you are 5’7” or under you will need a Short (S) sized jacket.
If you are between 5’8” to 6’0” we recommend the Regular (R) size.
For tall persons a Long (L) jacket is the right choice.
If you’re at the in between sizes, like 6’0” go with what your body type or style is some prefer a more cropped look while others a longer which is up to you.
The Four Pillars of a Perfect Fit
While the baseline is given by the size tag, the real test in choosing your suit jacket is in 4 key areas. These are the elements of true tailoring and where you are most likely to go wrong.
1.The Shoulder Fit (The Most Important Test)
Shoulders are the base structure of a suit. If they fit well, the rest can be fixed.
Check: The shoulder point should be at the division between your shoulder and arm.
Look: The line should be neat. Shoulders on the jacket should not extend past the shoulder bone which is a sign the jacket is too large; if there is fabric pull or dimples that means it’s too small.
2.The Jacket Closure (The Torso Test)
The fit of the body to the jacket which in turn determines if it has a sleek or sagging look.
Check: Button the first button (for two button suits) or the middle one (for three button suits). The jacket should close properly.
Look: If at the button you see an “X” crease in it, that’s a sign it is too tight. You should be able to fit a flat hand between your jacket and shirt not more, not less.
3.The Jacket Length (The Proportion Test)
Jacket length defines balance and proportion.
Check: When at ease with your arms the jacket hem should hit at the middle of your hand, by the base of the thumb.
Look: The jacket should cover your seat completely. Shorter length looks awkward and longer is out of proportion.
4.The Sleeve Length (The Cuff Test)
Ideal sleeve length is a detail of perfection.
Check: The sleeve should hit at the wrist bone.
Look: At the very minimum a quarter to a half inch of your shirt cuff should be seen which is a very subtle yet powerful touch.
Tip: Sleeve changes are simple and affordable, first out of that which is to be prioritized should be shoulder and torso fit.
Slim Fit vs. Classic Fit: Understanding Jacket Styles
Beyond what you see in size the jacket style also in how it feels and drape.
Classic Fit: Classic and easy fit which features more room in the chest and waist.
Modern or Tailored Fit: A clean cut slightly pinched but not binding. For most body types.
Slim Fit: Of the slimest proportion through the chest and waist which creates a sharp silhouete. Best for lean or athletic builds.
Pro Tip: With small details pay attention to the “X” crease. Also in the right size you may notice it is tighter due to the tapered cut.
The Role of the Tailor: Perfecting the Fit
Few jackets fit right out of the gate. With exact measurements that may still is the case that tailoring is a must to get that custom fit.
Common and Easy Alterations
Shortening or lengthening sleeves
Wearing the jacket at the waist to create a more defined look.
Minor collar adjustments to prevent gaping
Expensive or Difficult Alterations
Changing shoulder width
Great changes to the chest or overall length.
These are tough issues which also may not be worth it, also always get a jacket with proper shoulders.
Final Thoughts: Investing in the Perfect Fit
A great fitting suit jacket is the base of classic style. To answer “How do you know what size suit jacket to buy? — first get your chest measurement and choose the right length.
When you try on a jacket pay attention to the shoulder and torso fit first. Don’t accept that which is just close enough. A well fitted suit will earn you respect and project confidence.
Frequently Asked Questions (Q&A)
1. How do I find out my suit jacket size at home?
Even numbers for men’s jackets, odd for short.
2. Should a suit jacket feel tight or loose?
A suit jacket should fit close to your shoulders and chest which still allows for movement. If it pulls when you button it up or develops wrinkles at the back, it is too tight.
3. What is the difference between regular, slim, and classic fit jackets?
Slim fit: At the waist which is very modern.
Regular fit: Comfortable, spacious design.
Classic fit: Classic with wide shoulders and loose torso.
4. Can I use my chest size to buy a suit jacket?
Yes — your chest measurement is what we use. A size 40 in chest equals a size 40 in jackets. For best results we recommend you try it on or check a brand’s size chart which may vary.
5. How long should a suit jacket be?
The perfect length goes past your seat and to your knuckles when arms are at your sides. Tall men may go a little longer for balance.
6. Can I use the same sizing guide for leather jackets as for suit jackets on Movies Leather Jacket?
Yes, the sizing is similar in most cases we recommend that you measure your chest and at your shoulders very precisely. Also note that at Movies Leather Jacket we present a movie influenced range of leather jackets which tend to fit either very tailored or very relaxed according to the design, so do take a close look at the size chart included with each product before you buy.